chriskitch, muswell hill
13th August 2016
Approx £15 a head.
On greyish winter days, it's the little comforts that keep your chin up. A former colleague recommended her dentist in Muswell Hill a few years ago. I made the sad journey to Kings Avenue, full of dread and despair, and while desperately seeking parking I found this little oasis of foodie fun. It started off as a little reward for surviving the drill and micropick, and now sometimes I make an appointment with Dominic the Dentist just to have an excuse to pop by. I told no one - it was my hidey hole, a private place for communion with cake and some tea whisperings on a cold afternoon.
It's a squat little building, adorably so, with a few outdoor seats and plenty indoors too. A most inviting display of Ottolenghi-style deli salads and cold foods greets you upon entry, and to the right a kitsch collection of antique weighing scales, tills and potted plants provides a backdrop to the sugar and cutlery station. They serve warm food for mains and have a creative breakfast menu. It's largely all very good - order the ambitious dishes, not the very ordinary ones.
Now here's the really special bit. Christian Honour is some serious chef talent - think Guiness and blue cheese bread, tea-smoked salmon, and baked eggs in yoghurt, raisin & pumpkin seeds.
Say what? In the hobbit-home in Muswell Hill?
Yup. He ran the kitchen at - wait for it - the Dorchester, overseeing 200 chefs at one point. He's got a cookbook proponing his "big flavours, simple food" philosophy. Check it out if you'd like to learn how to remix your wakame salad with some apples, poppyseed and balsamic.
Now he's opened a full-blown restaurant in Hoxton, so the cat's out of the bag and he's going to get annoyingly famous. As if it wasn't hard enough to get parking in Muswell Hill. Sigh.